Advantages of flexible track
The advantages of this type of track are many. For one thing, you have fewer joints in a run of track.  That means a lot to railroaders.   You also have the ability to gently ease your model into curves, instead of going right into them as with the rigid track.  Consider this, too! A three-foot section of flexible track can easily replace four nine-inch pieces of sectional track.   And perhaps what I appreciate most about flexible track is now I’m the one in control of the curves, not some stupid rigid track pieces.  I can make the curves exactly what I need them to be.  I don’t feel as if I’m trapped into fixed radii produced for the mass market that couldn’t possibly fit the area in which I’m constrained to work.   If you’re considering giving flexible track a try, there are a few secrets that will make it more enjoyable, not only to install, but ultimately use as as well.    I realize, first and foremost, that I have to follow those laws of geometry and gravity.  By that, I mean that no matter the type of track I chose, if my curve is too sharp (the law of geometry), the train will derail (the law of gravity!)  So before I even begin to lay anything down, I take a pencil and literally outline the area I wish my track to follow.   In doing this, I can get feel for the minimum radii I have.  And I know I’m not going to go beyond this point.   Sometimes, I’ll even use the flexible track as a template of sorts, drawing around apiece that is temporarily laid out just so I can be sure I have the track locations right and that they flow smoothly.   Yes, I’m sure you’ve probably heard the advice that a yardstick, a pencil and a length of string is all you need for a straight track.  But even armed with these instruments, I’ve been doomed to make errors.  When I use the real thing, my efforts go more smoothly.   The real key to the successful use of flexible track though lies in that word “smooth.”  Let your track “do” everything smoothly.  Don’t force it into any sudden curves or unexpected kinks.  And for that matter, don’t try to fit it into any unnatural rises or valley.   Grading:
And we don’t mean a report card!   Adjusting the grading of your track is a problem many novices to the hobby have a problem with.  Remember that your train is a mere model of the prototype.  The gradient may not seem like it’s very large to you, but seriously examine the size of the train you’re asking to run up or down those hills.   For the small-sized conductor struggling inside that locomotive, it may look like a steep, steep mountain! Don’t let the grade start up too quickly. One quick way to ensure that you keep your locomotive safe is by placing your eye at track level.  Now just “sight” it along to keep the track flowing.    Most individuals don’t realize that they have to be super careful if their train is only sitting upon a piece of plywood.  This type of ground covering is actually notoriously uneven.    If you should notice any kinks, while you’re “eyeballing” the situation, or any bad joints, bumps or dips, straighten them out immediately.  If you can see them, they’ll probably cause your train trouble.
More on Jonah’s book “Ultimate Comprehensive Guide to Model Train Building”.

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